EXFOLIATION FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE

By Nateisha Scott

Between Physical and Chemical then understanding AHAs and BHAs, Exfoliation can be a mind field. Dissecting exfoliation and tailoring it to your own skincare needs is essentially what will elevate your routine and deliver a brighter, smoother and even complexion.

The topic of exfoliation isn’t new but technologies and ingredients that can help to advance exfoliation is constantly renewing itself year on year.

WHAT IS EXFOLIATION?

When exfoliating the skin, it removes dead skin cells from the outer layers of the skin and is beneficial for revealing a brighter a more refined complexion underneath. Whether you suffer with dry patches, dull skin, uneven pigmentation or to generally improve your skin’s appearance, exfoliation is vital for your weekly and even daily routine.

There are different types and methods of exfoliation that is vital to understand especially when harnessing a specific routine for your skin’s needs.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT METHODS OF EXFOLIATION?

There are two camps when considering exfoliation, we either have mechanical (physical) or chemical exfoliation. Mechanical exfoliation can include an exfoliating brush, exfoliating sponge or glove and scrub. Physical exfoliants usually contain brush brittles, beads or rough textures that aim to remove layers of dead skin. Although effective, physical exfoliation can cause micro tears on the skin’s surface which can lead to dark marks and further pigmentation and therefore being gentle and not to abrasive it vital.

For those that prefer a gentler approach, chemical exfoliants are less harsh in terms of application method but equally if not more impactful in terms of their execution as they tend to penetrate deeper within the skin. Chemical exfoliants are broken down between AHAs and BHAs, AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) work by breaking apart the bonds holding the dead skin cells together that gathers on your skin’s surface. Examples of AHAs include glycolic and lactic acid, they will penetrate through the glue binding the dead skin cells and cause the skin to naturally shed its dead particles. In addition to AHAs, there are BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) that refer to acids such as salicylic and whilst also sloughing away dead skin cells, they also work on a deeper level to clear trapped sebum, blackheads and clogged pores.

HOW AHAS AND BHAS DIFFER?

AHAs are water soluble and can only work on the skin’s surface, with their ability to stimulate natural moisturiser factors within the skin, they are often preferred for normal to dry or sun-damaged skin. BHAs are similarly hydrating but as an oil soluble, they can work on both the skin’s surface and penetrate deep within the pores. With natural calming and soothing properties, BHAs is gentle enough on the skin and well-rounded ingredient for many skin types.

EXFOLIATION FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE?

Whilst there a different methods of exfoliation; your skin type should 100% determine what exfoliation method you use and how frequently you are to exfoliate. Certain skin types are strongly recommended against exfoliation such as those suffering with Rosacea.

Dry Skin:

Exfoliation is as equally important for dry skin types; exfoliating will remove the build-up of dry and flaky skin. Focus your efforts around chemical exfoliation and optimise AHA’s, especially glycolic acid which is gentle yet effective. Glycolic will remove the dead skin cells and encourage a healthy cell turnover.

SENSITIVE SKIN:

Stay clear of physical exfoliation, the mechanical brushing will only irritate your skin further. Use a mild chemical exfoliant that is designed for sensitive skin.

NORMAL SKIN:

With skin types that have little to no complications, you can choose between physical and chemical exfoliation.

COMBINATION SKIN:

Your skin can benefit from both but depending on what your skin needs, choose between either and never do both types of exfoliation at the same time.

OILY SKIN:

Oilier skin types generally have thicker skin and can therefore withstand a physical exfoliation that can break the extra build up. However, be gentle as to not tear the layers of your skin and if so opt for a chemical exfoliant that will break down the build-up and target your concerns if you experience break outs.

ACNE-PRONE SKIN:

Chemical exfoliation is your strongest ally and prioritising BHA’s especially with salicylic acid as its primary ingredient will benefit your skin. Penetrating your skin’s layers, BHAs will target and breakdown clogged pores, excess sebum and enlarged pores that can all lead to future breakouts.

DISCOVER THE EXFOLIATION COLLECTION

CLINICAL EXFOLIATOR

This enzymatic exfoliator is powerful but gentle on the skin. Utilising a blend of AHA acids, anti blemish agents and calming ingredients, this exfoliator will slough away dead skin, retexturize, refine and smooth complexion, while clearing imperfections.

CELESTIAL BLACK DIAMOND MULTI-ACID ACCELERATED PEEL

The Accelerated Peel was designed to give a clinical, chemical peel-like effect without the irritation or inflammation usually associated with powerful enzymatic exfoliators. This mask delivers a blend of AHA acids into the skin with the aid of Diamond Particles, while Rose-Quartz crystal particles sit on the surface to gently buff away dead skin cells. Firming ingredients like Wheat Protein are then more easily absorbed into the skin, resulting in a beautifully polished, smooth, firm and even-toned complexion.

EXFOLACTIC CLEANSER

A gentle exfoliating AHA cleanser that resurfaces and clarifies without irritating the skin. The Rosemary base will sooth and calm the skin, while a trio of alpha-hydroxy acids get to work to resurface and clarify. The non- foaming Cleanser is developed to deep clean, while being non-irritating on the skin. The antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory rosemary base will calm the skin, as well as being key for treating blemishes and impurities.

EXFOLIATION FOR YOUR SKIN TYPE

By: Nateisha Scott


Between Physical and Chemical then understanding AHAs and BHAs, Exfoliation can be a mind field. Dissecting exfoliation and tailoring it to your own skincare needs is essentially what will elevate your routine and deliver a brighter, smoother and even complexion.

The topic of exfoliation isn’t new but technologies and ingredients that can help to advance exfoliation is constantly renewing itself year on year.

What is exfoliation?

When exfoliating the skin, it removes dead skin cells from the outer layers of the skin and is beneficial for revealing a brighter a more refined complexion underneath. Whether you suffer with dry patches, dull skin, uneven pigmentation or to generally improve your skin’s appearance, exfoliation is vital for your weekly and even daily routine.

There are different types and methods of exfoliation that is vital to understand especially when harnessing a specific routine for your skin’s needs.

What are the different methods of exfoliation?

There are two camps when considering exfoliation, we either have mechanical (physical) or chemical exfoliation. Mechanical exfoliation can include an exfoliating brush, exfoliating sponge or glove and scrub. Physical exfoliants usually contain brush brittles, beads or rough textures that aim to remove layers of dead skin. Although effective, physical exfoliation can cause micro tears on the skin’s surface which can lead to dark marks and further pigmentation and therefore being gentle and not to abrasive it vital.

For those that prefer a gentler approach, chemical exfoliants are less harsh in terms of application method but equally if not more impactful in terms of their execution as they tend to penetrate deeper within the skin. Chemical exfoliants are broken down between AHAs and BHAs, AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) work by breaking apart the bonds holding the dead skin cells together that gathers on your skin’s surface. Examples of AHAs include glycolic and lactic acid, they will penetrate through the glue binding the dead skin cells and cause the skin to naturally shed its dead particles. In addition to AHAs, there are BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) that refer to acids such as salicylic and whilst also sloughing away dead skin cells, they also work on a deeper level to clear trapped sebum, blackheads and clogged pores.

How AHAs and BHAs differ?

AHAs are water soluble and can only work on the skin’s surface, with their ability to stimulate natural moisturiser factors within the skin, they are often preferred for normal to dry or sun-damaged skin. BHAs are similarly hydrating but as an oil soluble, they can work on both the skin’s surface and penetrate deep within the pores. With natural calming and soothing properties, BHAs is gentle enough on the skin and well-rounded ingredient for many skin types.

Exfoliation for your skin type?

Whilst there a different methods of exfoliation; your skin type should 100% determine what exfoliation method you use and how frequently you are to exfoliate. Certain skin types are strongly recommended against exfoliation such as those suffering with Rosacea.

Dry Skin:

Exfoliation is as equally important for dry skin types; exfoliating will remove the build-up of dry and flaky skin. Focus your efforts around chemical exfoliation and optimise AHA’s, especially glycolic acid which is gentle yet effective. Glycolic will remove the dead skin cells and encourage a healthy cell turnover.

Sensitive Skin:

Stay clear of physical exfoliation, the mechanical brushing will only irritate your skin further. Use a mild chemical exfoliant that is designed for sensitive skin.

Normal Skin:

With skin types that have little to no complications, you can choose between physical and chemical exfoliation.

Combination Skin:

Your skin can benefit from both but depending on what your skin needs, choose between either and never do both types of exfoliation at the same time.

Oily Skin:

Oilier skin types generally have thicker skin and can therefore withstand a physical exfoliation that can break the extra build up. However, be gentle as to not tear the layers of your skin and if so opt for a chemical exfoliant that will break down the build-up and target your concerns if you experience break outs.

Acne-Prone Skin:

Chemical exfoliation is your strongest ally and prioritising BHA’s especially with salicylic acid as its primary ingredient will benefit your skin. Penetrating your skin’s layers, BHAs will target and breakdown clogged pores, excess sebum and enlarged pores that can all lead to future breakouts.

DISCOVER THE EXFOLIATION COLLECTION

Clinical Exfoliator

This enzymatic exfoliator is powerful but gentle on the skin. Utilising a blend of AHA acids, anti blemish agents and calming ingredients, this exfoliator will slough away dead skin, retexturize, refine and smooth complexion, while clearing imperfections.

Celestial Black Diamond Multi-Acid Accelerated Peel

The Accelerated Peel was designed to give a clinical, chemical peel-like effect without the irritation or inflammation usually associated with powerful enzymatic exfoliators. This mask delivers a blend of AHA acids into the skin with the aid of Diamond Particles, while Rose-Quartz crystal particles sit on the surface to gently buff away dead skin cells. Firming ingredients like Wheat Protein are then more easily absorbed into the skin, resulting in a beautifully polished, smooth, firm and even-toned complexion.

Exfolactic Cleanser

A gentle exfoliating AHA cleanser that resurfaces and clarifies without irritating the skin. The Rosemary base will sooth and calm the skin, while a trio of alpha-hydroxy acids get to work to resurface and clarify. The non- foaming Cleanser is developed to deep clean, while being non-irritating on the skin. The antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory rosemary base will calm the skin, as well as being key for treating blemishes and impurities.

If you were to advise a London guide, what would be on your list?

Well, As I grew up in Notting Hill, it will always have my heart and if I was recommending spots in London, a wander around Notting Hill would be high up on my list. From there it would be all the best shopping destinations, the iconic private members club, Annabels, Harrods and Liberty’s for any cute and unique gifts. I would always pop into 111CRYO at Harrods for the Cryo Facial and treatment for the ultimate recharge. Sometimes the city is great, but the beautiful secrets of the English countryside is something that should be experienced.

Your In-Flight Essentials?

I don’t have a routine per say and I am certainly not as thorough as Naomi Campbell but I would apply the Meso Infusion Lip Duo and I would always wipe my phone down with anti-bacterial wipes, in fact I do this every day, the bacteria build up is no good for the skin.

In terms of Industry, where do you see the hair industry going?

Well Instagram has changed so much and has impacted the way we consume and learn within the industry, especially with so many creatives, but I still find that a massive amount of people come to the professionals to share the knowledge on how to carry out or complete a desired look, more than ever there is power behind ‘how-to’ videos.

A very valid point and in terms of 2020?

In terms of what we are to see in 2020, things are going to be super creative and we will see a wider awareness for people doing their own thing and it will be expressive and artistic. People will move away from the overtly glamorous looks and will create looks they can tailor to their everyday. As it’s currently Award Season which is the busiest time of the year leading up to the Met Ball, hairstyles are certainly more elaborate, and everyone loves an up do. I would say the most timeless look has to be the blunt bob, it comes around year on year, but it is effortless and timeless.

Outside of hair, what other industries are you into?

I am hugely into Interiors and I would describe my style as 60s/70s glamour, think elaborate and dramatic but I often fantasise about 80s Dallas and Joan Collins and I have to reign myself in. I also love Baking; it is the ultimate way to relax and I find that it is my meditation and therapy. If I’m in the USA I would bake a lot of cookies as everyone is obsessed with then over here and in the UK, I would bake more traditional styles like a lemon tart or an apple tart – it allows for me to be creative outside of my job.

Finally, the best advice you have ever received?

It would have to be from my grandfather, he would often say to me “it’s not how well you’re doing but how well people think you’re doing”. I haven’t successfully implemented it however you can look to Instagram today and people see our work and are blown away by it, but we can be so hard on ourselves and not appreciate our own work ourselves.

 

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